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Abby Quillen

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Sustainable Agriculture

6 Reasons to Skip Packaged Salad and Eat Fresh Greens Instead

By Abby Quillen

Rip open a bag, toss some greens in a bowl, pour on some dressing, and voila, instant salad. No washing, chopping, or spinning. What’s not to love about packaged salad greens? Seventy percent of American families buy them. And packaged greens may even encourage salad-phobic Americans to eat healthier.

Unfortunately, packaged salad greens come with some downsides and even some health risks. Keep reading to learn why you may want to spend a few extra minutes washing, chopping, and assembling your salads from fresh (unpackaged) greens.

  1. Salad with a side of foodborne illness?

Any food you consume raw comes with a greater risk of foodborne disease. Leafy green salads are one of the top sources of infections. They account for 20 percent of outbreaks in the U.S, according to the Center for Disease Control and Prevention and 30 percent of outbreaks in Europe, according to the European Food Safety Authority. Packaged greens and salad mixes are especially susceptible to pathogen contamination because they’re handled more and sit on the shelf longer than fresh greens.

When the leaves of packaged salad greens are  torn or chopped before they’re packaged, they leak juices, which increase the risk of Salmonella growth by 2400 times. Moreover, packaged greens may be contaminated with e. coli bacteria if they come into contact with animal feces or contaminated water or if workers don’t wash their hands well at the farm or in the factory. A Consumer Reports study found unacceptable levels of bacteria in 39 percent of the packaged greens they tested, including those produced by major brands such as Earthbound Farm Organic, Dole, and Fresh Express. Some of the biggest outbreaks of foodborne disease in the recent past have been linked to bagged salad greens, including an E. coli outbreak traced to packaged romaine lettuce that killed five people and sickened 197 people in 35 different states this spring (2018).

To minimize your risk of acquiring a foodborne disease from salad greens:

  • Buy fresh leafy greens that have not been chopped, torn, or crushed and have been handled as little as possible.
  • Remove the outer layer of lettuce leaves and discard them
  • Keep salad greens refrigerated.
  • Wash salad greens (even packaged ones) before eating them by running each leaf under running water.
  • Don’t let greens sit in the fridge for more than a week.
  • Don’t eat greens if they look or smell off in any way.

  1. The packaged salad industry harms wildlife

When you eat a salad, you may feel good about consuming a meal that doesn’t hurt animals. Unfortunately, that’s probably not the case if your packaged greens were grown in Central California (and there’s a good chance they were). The region is called America’s salad bowl because more than 75 percent of America’s salad greens are grown there. Large farms in the Salinas Valley process as many as 10 million pounds of salad greens per week.

In 2006, a massive E. coli outbreak was traced to bagged spinach grown in the Salinas Valley. Because, E. Coli is spread from animal feces, all animals were seen as a threat – frogs, mice, deer, hawks, owls, and birds. Farmers responded to the outbreak by eradicating wildlife habitat from their farms. They clear cut trees, grass, and hedgerows; filled in ponds; and erected fences to keep wildlife from crossing streams and entering farms. More than 90 percent of wetlands, floodplains, and riparian habitat in the Central Valley have been decimated.

These “sterile” agricultural practices have a detrimental impact on wildlife and contribute to the biodiversity crisis and mass extinctions. Moreover, they may be counterproductive. Wetlands help reduce pesticide runoff and bacteria contamination of crops. Studies indicate farmers can reduce E. coli contamination on a farm by as much as 99 percent by restoring wetlands and waterways.

To support farmers who protect wildlife habitat:

  • Choose organic, which minimizes the use of pesticides and herbicides, which impact wildlife.
  • Look for foods with the eco-labels Certified Wildlife Friendly or Food Alliance Certified, which ensure farms protect wildlife habitat and biodiversity.
  • Shop at your local farmers’ market and talk to farmers about their farming practices.
  1. Packaging greens requires a lot of water

Have you seen the triple-wash guarantee on salad packaging labels? Repeated washing is necessary to make commercial salad greens clean and safe. No one wants to find dirt or a frog in a bagged salad mix, and, as mentioned, the risk of foodborne disease is high in foods eaten raw.

But washing operations use a lot of water. “The bagged, triple-washed variety is enormously water costly,” Gidon Eshel, a professor at Bard College’s Center for Environmental Policy told Mother Jones Magazine. You can see a video of  one part of the washing process here to understand how much water is used to clean salad mix. Farmers in Central California are incentivized to plant more greens than they can sell, which wastes even more water (not to mention that they throw excess product in the landfill, packaging and all).

Water waste may not be an issue in some parts of the country. But California doesn’t have excess fresh water to spare. Between 2012 and 2016, California experienced the worst drought in its history. Most of the water in the state is used by farmers. Since 1922, California has relied on a 242-mile aqueduct system from the Colorado River to supply drinking water to residents of Southern California.

To support agriculture that conserves water:

  • Learn about the water footprint of different foods
  • Eat less meat, which has a huge water footprint
  • Buy from small, local farms that are committed to sustainable agriculture
  1. Plastic or plastic?

When you buy packaged salad, you have two choices of packaging: crinkly plastic bags or plastic clamshell boxes. Both are a disaster for the environment, especially now that many municipalities worldwide have halted plastics recycling. If you must buy packaged salad, the most eco-friendly option is clamshell boxes made of recycled materials.

To reduce the plastic waste from your salads:

  • Grow your own greens.
  • If you buy greens at a grocery store or farmer’s market, use reusable grocery and produce bags.
  • Reuse any plastic produce bags you take.
  1. Greens with a side of chemical sanitizers?

Commercial cleaning machines handle mass quantities of greens and can’t manually clean them as well as you do at home under the faucet. Thus, they use chemical disinfectants, usually diluted chlorine. Some European Union countries, including the Netherlands, Denmark, and Belgium, have banned the use of chlorine for washing fresh-cut produce because it can create harmful disinfectant by-products in the water.

To minimize your chance of ingesting chemical sanitizer residue:

  • Grow your own greens or buy fresh, unwashed greens
  • Rinse bagged greens again at home (which unfortunately kills the convenience of packaged salad)
  1. Where have all the nutrients gone?

Packaged salad greens are sometimes two weeks old when you eat them and have gone through a lot of processing in the field and factory. Unfortunately, they lose a lot of nutrients in the process. Research suggests they may lose half of their folate, up to 80 percent of their vitamin C, and 46 percent of their carotinoids.

To eat the freshest, most nutritious food possible:

  • Grow your own vegetables or buy from a local farm

Conclusion

Don’t be afraid to enjoy a packaged salad mix occasionally. They may be more risky than many foods, but they’re unlikely to hurt you, statistically speaking. Moreover, any greens are better than not eating greens.

However, if you want to eat the freshest and most nutritious food possible (and who doesn’t?), skip packaged greens and opt for making salads out of fresh greens. You’ll ingest more nutrients, and you’ll support agriculture that’s better for wildlife and the environment. As Micheal Pollen writes, “How you and your family choose to spend your food money represents one of the most powerful votes you have.”

If you enjoyed this post, you may enjoy these related posts:

  • Farmers Go Wild
  • Local, Seasonal Foods are Superfoods
  • Becoming Carcinogen Abolitionists
  • How Two Plant Geeks Grew a Permaculture Oasis in an Ordinary Backyard
  • Is Tap Water Disrupting Your Microbiome?

July 10, 2018Filed Under: Health Tagged With: Food Waste, Grow Your Own Food, Packaged Salad, Plastic Waste, Sustainable Agriculture, Water Waste, Wildlife Conservation, Wildlife-friendly Farming, Zero Waste

From Farm to Table

By Abby Quillen

“Where do you get your wheat?” I was about to ask.

My husband and I were out for a rare dinner alone at a nice restaurant, which advertises itself as exclusively local and organic. Next to us, a floor-to-ceiling board announced the night’s specials next to a list of farms where the food was grown.

I had just interviewed a local wheat farmer for an article and heard about a number of farmers in the Valley, who are switching from growing conventional grass seed, long the main crop in this part of the world, to growing organic grains for local markets. I was curious if this restaurant bought its wheat from one of the farmers I’d heard about.

But just as the waiter leaned in, and the question was about to leave my lips, I thought of this spoof of Portland, Oregon from the new show Portlandia, and I couldn’t bring myself to ask.

It’s true – Oregon is in the midst of a farm-to-table restaurant boom. I’ve been to three restaurants in the last few months with boards listing local farms. One is decorated with a mural of the rolling hills where the restaurant’s produce is grown, and the menu includes photos of the smiling farmers who grow the food.

Of course, farm-to-table restaurants are not new. Alice Waters has been serving up local, organic fare at Chez Pannise in San Francisco for decades. What is new about the locavore restaurants opening in this area is that more and more of them are affordable. One of the restaurants I ate in is a brew-pub and another serves “healthy fast food”, with all dishes under $10.

Moreover, just as the clip of Portlandia suggests, local restaurateurs (as well as grocers and bakers) seem to be forging closer relationships than ever with local farmers – and all parties are coming out ahead.

“It became a heck of a lot more fun to farm,” the wheat farmer I interviewed told me about his farm’s switch to growing food for local markets. “It’s infinitely more rewarding than just growing a product for a guy that you never know.”

We consumers might be the biggest winners. I’m a huge advocate of growing a garden, shopping at farmers’ markets, and cooking from scratch, but the reality is, Americans eat out a lot. In a 2006 survey, the average American family spent 42 percent of their food budget in restaurants.

When restaurants buy from local farms, our meals are more nutritious and taste better, since the food hasn’t made the 1500-mile road trip most produce takes before consumption in the U.S. And just think about all of the pollution and carbon not spewing into our air, and all of the money staying within our communities.

Besides, as a consumer, you can always put down the menu, ask the waiter to save your seats, and go meet the farmer who grew your wheat.

Are farm-to-table restaurants cropping up in your area? What do you think of the trend? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

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April 11, 2011Filed Under: Gardening, Health, Social movements Tagged With: Farm-to-Table Restaurants, Living Locally, Local Economy, Local Food, Organic Agriculture, Organic Food, Sustainable Agriculture, Sustainable Food

Wildlife-Friendly Food

By Abby Quillen

“Eating is an agricultural act.” – Wendell Berry

As you fly over the Midwest, you can look down on the seemingly endless patchwork of plots that make up much of our country. From the air, it’s striking how organized, clean, and antiseptic the nation’s farms look – almost more like factories than farmlands.

Humans have been farming for 10,000 years, but few of us have to think much about agriculture these days. Ninety percent of colonial Americans made their living in agriculture. Today less than two percent of us are farmers. Thus many people don’t think much about how farming has changed in the last 200 years.

For most of human history, farmers had no choice but to care for the health of the soil and ecosystems to some extent. Compost, manure, conservative tilling practices, crop rotation, beneficiary insects, and other natural allies were farmers’ only ways of ensuring healthy crops. But in the last century, petroleum-based fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides enabled farmers to buy fertility in bottles.

Today many consumers are concerned about the dangers of fertilizers and pesticides to human health. But one factor is often ignored: they and the “sterile” farming methods they’ve engendered have been disastrous to wildlife and ecosystems.

Today agriculture is the single biggest cause of habitat loss and endangered species. In the last century farmers across the nation have ripped out vegetation, cut down forests, eradicated insects, shot and killed predators, and filled in wetlands and streams. Wilderness is something increasingly contained in designated areas, not something tolerated on the farms and ranches that make up 40 percent of our nation.

Does it have to be this way? Can we protect the health of ecosystems and grow enough food to feed the world? Can we combine the unpredictable, fertile disorder of the wilderness with our craving for predictable, high-yield agriculture? Can farms be wilder?

I’ve been grappling with these questions for an article assignment over the last month, and in the process learning much about conservation and agriculture. I’ve gotten to talk to many interesting people on the subject and have been pouring over the writings of Wendell Berry, Aldo Leopold, and other thinkers, who’ve challenged notions of wild and tame.

I’ll share more about my article after it’s published. In the meantime, I thought you may like to know how you can support farmers who are protecting ecosystems, wildlife, and natural areas. A handful of eco-labels help consumers purchase food grown on farms that protect biodiversity. Some people call these labels “beyond organic”. If you don’t see them at your grocery store, consider asking the owner or manager to stock food certified by these organizations.

The Food Alliance

The Food Alliance launched its certification program in 1998 to designate producers and processors dedicated to social and environmental responsibility. To gain certification, farmers and ranchers must:

  • Conserve soil and water resources
  • Protect biodiversity and wildlife habitat
  • Provide safe and fair working conditions
  • Practice integrated pest management to minimize pesticide use and toxicity
  • Continually improve practices

To find Food Alliance Certified farms, ranches, processors, and distributors in your area, click here.

Salmon Safe

Salmon Safe certifies vineyards, ranches, and farms on the West Coast that are protecting endangered wild salmon and steelhead habitat. They require growers to:

  • Restore and protect waterways and wetlands
  • Prevent stream bank erosion and control sediment
  • Minimize the use of pesticides and contaminants
  • Keep livestock out of waterways

You can find out about some of the farms Salmon Safe has certified here and find a Salmon Safe wine here.

Demeter Biodynamic

Rudolf Steiner developed the concept of Biodynamic agriculture in 1924 in Germany, envisioning the farm as “a self-contained and self-sustaining organism”. In 1928 Demeter was formed in Europe to codify Steiner’s farming principles. Demeter requires farms and ranches to:

  • Avoid chemical pesticides and fertilizers
  • Utilize compost and cover crops
  • Set aside a minimum of 10% of total acreage for biodiversity

You can find a list of some Biodynamic farms here.

There are also a handful of excellent eco-labels that designate non-U.S. growers protecting wildlife and natural areas, including Bird Friendly, Fair Trade, and Rainforest Alliance.

You can find out more about all of these eco-labels and look up any that you see in the grocery store to make sure you can trust their claims at Consumer Reports’ greenerchoices.org.

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April 4, 2011Filed Under: Gardening, Health Tagged With: Agriculture, Biodiversity, Conservation, Demeter Biodynamic, Eco-Labels, Nature, Organic Agriculture, Organic Farming, Salmon Safe, Sustainable Agriculture, Sustainable Farming, The Food Alliance, Wilderness, Wildlife, Wildlife Conservation

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